Why I live in the middle of nowhere

Ten years ago, I moved to this part of the world from the Twin Cities. Born in Chicago I’d spend my whole life in cities before finding my way to Viroqua. A decade in, I’ve come to understand the ways that I love this tiny town of 5079 in rural Southwest Wisconsin.

You can’t believe this place. I’ll tell you about it, but I suspect you still won’t believe it. Viroqua is a small-town that draws people with some force that I can’t quite define. I’ve stopped trying. What I know is that people who drive through often stop, find people they love, and marvel. That if your car breaks down in town, you may end up moving here. That if you visit, you may visit for years while you figure out how to get here and stay here. And if you have a need for deep, true connection this place will call to you.

So today, in celebration, a list of reasons I call Viroqua my home.

The Viroqua Food Coop: crown jewel of the food system here in a place with all kinds of ways to get good food. photo Anne O'Connor

1.      The foodscape. This may seem ironic since you can count the total number of restaurants in my town on one hand. The good ones will take fewer fingers still. Here, you have to think differently about food. You have to remember where food comes from. You have to consider the amazing potlucks that regularly have vegetarian, gluten-free, and raw options. And the dinner parties. And the picnics. We are in the heart of some of the best growing land in the world. We are home to Organic Valley, the largest organic cooperative in the world and people here love good, clean, organic food. We have more organic farmers here—density wise—than anywhere else in the country. My egg farmer delivers fresh, organic eggs to my door every Saturday.

Fresh, organic eggs delivered to my door. photo by Anne O'Connor

 I can get organic milk from several farmers I know. Same with meat. There’s this Portlandia spoof "ordering the chicken", but it’s funny because there's some truth in there. Most nights, I know the farmers who are providing the Driftless Café with food. I grow shiitake mushrooms on a log in my backyard. A friend of mine makes the only pop I've ever really liked at Wisco Pop Soda. The roadside stands offer everything in season: strawberries and peas and corn and tomatoes and melons and grapes fresh out of the rich soil. I love these informal networks of food; they are a vital and sustainable way to feed my family. A little more formal are the abundant CSAs and the farmers’ market—a festive party downtown every Saturday.We have a local grocery store, Village Market, that is owned by a real family for more than 20 years. And the Viroqua Food Coop is the crown jewel where food and people meet, a community as much as a grocery store.  People come from all around the country, many from cities with up to 50,000 people, to study how our tiny town has such a kick-ass coop. It’s hard to imagine any other place that has a more vibrant, thriving, and healthy food system.

We have just a few restaurants, but the ones we have are great. Like The Rooted Spoon: yum! photo courtesy of Tony Macasaet

2.       The collaboration. When my kids were younger, I was part of a mamas group that met every week with the kids. We’d pick one mama’s home and while one of us hung out with the kids, the rest of us would work. This is kind of the norm around here. We are home to the coop. We have coops for everything: food, animal feed, electricity, mental health (yep), home-funeral services (really), housing cooperatives, a bank, and the Viroqua Healing Arts Center. These are just the formal cooperatives. There are so many informal networks of people gathered together to take on fantastic projects. We work together to make this a great place to live, to have a new running track and get parks and a community arena built, to restore a grand old theater, and a new library constructed.

Our new library is going to be an wonderful place. Drawings courtesy of the library board.

3.      The caring. We also take care of one another. When a family is expecting a baby, or someone is ill or injured, or someone dies, friends step forward and make meals and cut grass and sweep floors and care for children. When I recently moved to a new house, more than 50 people showed up for the moving party. Yes: 50. It was a true party. We aren’t alone unless we chose to be alone. Many people are in long-term women’s groups or men’s groups: we help each other live better lives. But this caring is reflected outside of organized groups. We prepare mothers for birth with days of love and rose petals and massage and words of encouragement and listening. We stand together when our loved ones die and hold one another up. We work to maintain our love and respect for one another even when we don’t like what someone does. It’s not utopia: we are humans still. And there is a varied experience. Maybe there is a tone that permeates much of life here—we accept that you’re flawed and love you anyway. Or at least recognize that as another human being on the planet, you have a right to respect and dignity and—yes—care.

4.      The creativity. This place fosters and supports creative endeavors. Artists and writers and musicians and philosophers and dancers find their way here. We are a small place and life happens on a small scale. But there are many nights when there are too many options. Good options. World-class musicians playing jazz or a Beckett show at the Underground, the town’s alternative theater? Alternative so as not to be confused with the Viroqua Community Theatre that just put on a fantastic Wizard of Oz. Oh, and there’s the Women’s Theater Project. People take up work here and make interesting things happen. We are about to have our fourth annual Viroqua Harvest Festival and Parade, an extraordinary community event. The Driftless Folk School teaches lost arts. Tons of art and writing and performance work happens at The Ark, a community arts center. And WDRT is a community radio station. VIVA, an artists’ cooperative (naturally) on Main Street, is a showcase for local work that has turned First Thursdays downtown into a fun and go-to event. You can browse for books at Driftless Books or on Main Street's Bramble Books. Viroqua Public Market is forever interesting. And there are the private groups of musicians on a porch or writers in a living room or fantastic cooks around a full table or the knitters’ circle, or the group canning together or the people making sausage together. There’s the ladies’ bike rides (no one left behind) and the power rides on our great hills and all that Bluedog Cycles has brought. There’s the group that canoes and kayaks on the Mississippi and the Wisconsin. There’s horseback riding. There’s the wild flower group at the Kickapoo Valley Reserve and the birders. There is so much that happens here, so much to learn and to discover about what makes life full and rich and varied.

The Viroqua Harvest Parade demonstrates the creativity of the place. photo courtesy of Tony Macasaet

5.      The landscape. This area is called the Driftless region—no glacial drift has flattened out the landscape like it did all the rest of the Midwest. The drift went around us. So instead of flat, we have gorgeous rocks standing up out of the land. Viroqua is the heart and hub of the Kickapoo Valley, the land of rolling hills, luscious valleys, wind-swept ridges and rock outcroppings of limestone around and along one of the country’s most winding rivers—the Kickapoo. There are ancient plant and animal species not found anywhere else. You can literally dig a rock out of the earth and you will almost surely find something craggy and full of crystals and beauty. I almost don’t want to tell you about the reserve, because once people realize what we have hidden in plain sight here, well, I imagine my favorite trail will occasionally have people on it.

The Three Chimneys rocks are impressive, but just one part of the stunning landscape of the Driftelss region. photo courtesy of Tony Macasaet.

6.      The schools. There are excellent school options in this small place. The public schools, the alternative schools, a thriving home-school community, and religious schools. My kids attend incredible schools. Pleasant Ridge Waldorf School and the Youth Initiative High School (YIHS) work to teach kids a holistic approach to life: “an education for head, hands, and heart.” This commitment plays out in very real ways for my kids, my family, and my entire community. The schools teach kids about any particular subject by giving them such a wonderful context for life and knowing and learning. They expect the children to develop and be full, open, free, and participating people. What I mean is that they draw the best from my kids. And from me. These schools call people from around the world to this place. This year alone, nine of the 50 students at YIHS are international boarding students. My daughter has her own little international community every time she goes to high school. It’s like that here.

7.      The people. When I leave my town and go to bigger places, I remember how much people know me here. Know my children. How I can forget my checkbook but the store will still let me “buy” something because they know I’ll be back tomorrow with the money. There is great comfort in being known, being seen, being part of a whole. Of course this can feel like being scrutinized, being judged, or being unable to escape, but I guess it all depends on your perspective. Small towns—and especially this small town, push us towards one another. We have so many chances to figure out more of ourselves, who we are in the world and how we want to live our lives. We are all here in Viroqua and there’s some recognition that we have to be kind because we are in it for the long haul. You can’t shake your fist in anger at someone on the highway and expect to never see them again. Likely, they’ll be sitting next to you at your kid’s track meet. Living in close proximity to people is challenging. And immensely rewarding. I’ve been living with and learning from these people for the past ten years. I can’t wait to see what they’ve got for me in the next decade.

I was skeptical when I moved here. I've lived in big cities my whole life and, for the most part, really loved that. But there's something tremendously grounding for me about being surrounded by natural beauty each day. It is, for me, undeniably nurturing. And all these human-made endeavors help to make this place part of a genuine community.Whatever its call, I'm not alone. This land and the people it calls has been working its magic for a long time.One thing I've realized is that where there people, there is life. And even in "the middle of nowhere," we get to make the kind of life we want.  What a luxury! What a life!

Why do you live where you live? How do you make it work for you? What are you building? Tell me about it in the comments, or drop me a line.